Every year, the horological faithful await new offerings from major producers and drool over the spectacular inner workings of high end timepieces. Rarely do the external components of the watch generate the same sort of excitement. But when a company essentially reinvents the way water resistance is achieved, it should raise plenty of eyebrows – even from the most discerning watch enthusiast.
That’s exactly what Switzerland-based Mauron Musy has done with the Amure 03, a watch that features a mechanical sealing process that replaces the need for rubber gaskets. This feat of engineering was achieved with an interlocking multi-piece case that uses spring compression. It’s a first in the history of watchmaking and manages to achieve an impressive 30 atmospheres of water resistance.
But the Amure is not promoted as a dive watch. With the absence of a rotating bezel or any luminosity whatsoever, the Amure does not pretend to be a tool watch for ocean explorers. Instead, it’s a sports watch for people who appreciate the engineering and district look of the timepiece. With a price tag just below the $10,000 USD mark, it’s not a watch intended for the casual enthusiast. But there’s plenty of value to be found here – to match the innovative exterior, Mauron Musy had movement supplier La Joux Perret produce a proprietary mechanical heart that beats at 4HZ and holds 55 hours of power reserve.
This is where most of the magic of the Amure 03 happens. Through mechanical engineering, the multi-piece case uses spring compression to keep water and moisture from entering, relegating the standard rubber gaskets to your watchmakers’ trash bin. The advantages are clear: While gaskets have been the water resistance technology of choice for decades, rubber deteriorates and needs to be replaced. Gaskets can also fail if seated improperly.
Another point worth mentioning is the absence of the screw down crown. Typically, a watch with high water resistance makes use of the pressure put on a rubber gasket with the screw down crown. Instead, Mauron Musy has developed a winding system that uses a stem that pivots inside a bearing screwed to the caseband.
The Amure is relatively light for a large watch thanks to the beautifully finished grade 5 titanium case. At 44mm without crown, this is a watch that screams for attention without looking garish or gaudy. Still, there are enough contrasting finishing choices to draw the eye to the timepiece. The watch features deep concentric brushing mixed with polished edges. The sum of these finishes creates an unusual mix of industrial lines and elegant sheen.
Perhaps the most distinct feature of the case is the product of its proprietary locking mechanism. The case pieces join together at four flared intersections on the case perimeter, adding to the industrial charm that is both functional and aesthetically interesting.
The Amure’s dial is a perfect foil to the case’s mechanical feel and look, while integrating some of the industrial influences and mixed finishing, it adds a rounded warm element visually. Deep pressed snailing circles radiate from the center before meeting a smoothly rounded outer portion. Applied hour markers are subtly curved to match. One interesting feature (or lack thereof) is the absence of luminescence. Instead, the markers have polished outlines with deep sandblasted recesses. All of this creates a beautiful three-dimensional viewing experience from any angle.
Another feature of the dial is an applied marker declaring the watch “swiss crafted.” Mauron Musy wanted to make a statement about craftsmanship and origin – they say all components were conceived, manufactured and assembled in Switzerland – something that far exceeds the requirements for the normal “Swiss Made” designation.
In many cases with microbrands and independent brands, the movement doesn’t really earn its own review space. But the MM01 by La Joux Perret certainly deserves mention here. The movement carries on with finishing found on the caseback and matches the look and feel of the watch perfectly, while boasting 55 hours of power reserve. It is clearly a premium movement and definitely fitting for a watch of this caliber. The original Amure made use of an Eterna caliber 39 movement. The MM01 is clearly in a different league.
SPECS AT A GLANCE:
|Material :||Grade 5 Titanium|
|Diameter :||Ø 44 mm|
|Crystal :||Sapphire, glareproofed|
|Caseback :||Transparent, in glareproofed sapphire crystal|
|Specific features :||nO-Ring® technology by MAURON MUSY |
Engraved serial number
Swiss Crafted – WATER RESISTANCE = 300 meters
|Mechanism :||Mechanical movement Swiss lever escapement |
Bidirectional automatic winding
|Power reserve :||55 hours|
|Frequency :||28’800 vph (4 Hz)|
I struggled with one question: “Who is this watch for?” And honestly, there’s not a clear answer because this is a watch that should appeal to many based on distinct looks and ingenuity. Pricing is an obvious obstacle for a relatively new brand without the clout of a major producer. If you played a game of “would you rather” with similarly priced offerings from Blancpain, Zenith, Rolex and many others, it’s easy to see how the Mauron Musy could get lost in shuffle. I really hope that’s not the case and that this worthy entry gets traction. I believe this is a worthwhile entry in watch manufacturing history. It’s a timepiece that makes a bold engineering statement, and looks damn fine while doing so.
Learn more about the Mauron Musy Amure 03 at company’s website.